Prep your Deck and Fence for Stain

Deck prep chemicals — which one do you need?

Almost every deck needs a wash before it will take stain properly. Only some need stripping. Work down this list and stop at the first line that describes your deck.

1. New or bare wood, or a deck with a sound finish that is simply dirty — you need a cleaner.
2. Grey, silvered, weathered wood that was never stained, or hasn't been for years — you need a restorer.
3. An old solid or semi-solid stain that is peeling, flaking or cracking — you need a stripper.

Whichever route you take, finish with a brightener. It neutralises the chemical, evens out the tone and opens the grain so the stain penetrates instead of sitting on top.

Messmer's Wood & Deck Cleaner + Brightener (2-step)

Use it when: any deck that needs a straightforward clean, new wood included. Part A lifts dirt, mildew, algae and grey weathering; Part B brightens and neutralises.

The pairing we reach for alongside Messmer's UV Plus and SICO SRD. Part B is also the oxalic-acid brightener to use after any sodium-hydroxide stripper.

Woodluxe All-In-One Wood Cleaner (K018)

Use it when: maintenance cleaning, new wood, or any deck whose finish is still sound. Also rated for brick, stucco, concrete and vinyl.

Concentrate — dilutes up to 7:1. Covers 1,600–2,400 sq ft at full dilution. No neutralising step required.

Woodluxe Wood Restorer (K016)

Use it when: the wood has gone grey and fuzzy. Removes dead surface fibres and moderate to severe mould and mildew staining, bringing back the natural tone.

Bleach-free. Dilutes up to 8:1, covers 1,600–2,400 sq ft. Needs neutralising afterwards — see the note below.

Woodluxe Wood Stain Remover (K015)

Use it when: an existing solid or semi-solid stain is peeling and has to come off. Strips both latex and oil finishes down to healthy wood.

Use neat on solid stains, 2:1 on semi-transparents, up to 4:1 on clears. Covers 500–1,000 sq ft. Needs neutralising afterwards.

One thing to know about the stripper and the restorer. Both K015 and K016 are sodium-hydroxide based, and Benjamin Moore's own data sheets call for neutralising the wood afterwards with Woodluxe Wood Brightener & Neutralizer (K017). We don't stock K017 — we can order it in for you, or you can use Messmer's Wood Brightener (Part B), an oxalic-acid brightener that does the same neutralising job and is on the shelf. Skip this step and the new stain will look blotchy and won't bond properly.

Not sure which one your deck needs? Send us a photo or bring one in — 321 19 St NW, Calgary. We'd rather talk you out of a stripper you don't need than sell you one.

Applying oil-based stain — technique and safety

This section applies to Messmer's UV Plus, SICO SRD and Benjamin Moore's oil-based Woodluxe. Oil stain behaves differently from water-based, and two things trip people up every season: leaving excess stain on the surface, and what happens to the rags afterwards.

Wipe off the excess — this is the step that decides how the deck looks

Penetrating oil stains are meant to soak into the wood, not sit on top of it. The wood will take exactly as much as it can hold and no more. Anything left on the surface has nowhere to go: it never fully cures, stays tacky for weeks, goes shiny and blotchy, collects dirt and footprints, and eventually peels — which then means stripping the deck to fix it.

• Work two or three boards at a time, full length end to end, keeping a wet edge so you don't get lap marks part-way along a board.
• Give it 15–30 minutes to penetrate, then go back over the area with a clean dry rag or pad and wipe off anything still sitting wet on the surface.
• Check the usual trouble spots: board ends, around screws and nail heads, the grooves of grooved decking, butt joints, and the flat tops of railings where stain pools.
• Dense hardwoods — Ipe, Batu, Garapa, Cumaru — absorb very little. Expect to wipe off most of what you put on. Same with a deck that has been stained before.
• If a section still feels sticky the next day, you left excess on it. Wipe it down with a rag dampened in mineral spirits before it cures further.
• Thin coats beat thick coats. Two thin applications will always outlast one heavy one, and one properly wiped coat usually beats both.

The rest of the safety list

• No ignition sources. Oil stain and mineral spirits give off flammable vapour. No smoking, no BBQ, no fire pit, no patio heater, and keep clear of furnace, water heater and dryer vents if you're staining close to the house.
• Ventilation. Outdoors is fine; work upwind. If you're doing a covered porch, screened room or a garage, open it up and put a fan on it.
• Skin and eyes. Nitrile gloves and eye protection. Oil stains and solvents strip the oils out of your skin fast.
• Cleanup. Mineral spirits for oil-based products, not water — and the solvent-soaked rags follow exactly the same disposal rules as above.
• Don't stain a hot deck. If the boards are hot to the touch, the carrier flashes off before the stain can penetrate and you'll get lap marks and a patchy finish. Follow the sun around the deck and stain in the shade.
• Keep kids and pets off until the surface is fully dry and no longer tacky — typically 24–48 hours for oil-based, longer in cool or humid weather.
• Store leftovers in the original tightly sealed can, upright, somewhere that won't freeze, out of direct sun and away from ignition sources.

Product-specific instructions on the can always take priority over general guidance. If anything on your label contradicts what's here, follow the label — or call us at 403 270 9696 and we'll walk through it.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if my deck is dry enough to stain?

Pour a cup of water on the wood — if it soaks in within about 30 seconds, the deck is dry enough to stain. If it beads up or takes longer to absorb, give it a few more days and test again.

What do I do with rags soaked in oil-based stain?

Drop them straight into a metal pail of water as you use them, and keep the pail beside you while you work. Rags soaked in oil-based stain generate their own heat as the oil cures and can ignite without any spark or flame — usually hours after you've finished. When you're done, either keep them submerged in the sealed pail until you can take them to a City of Calgary household hazardous waste drop-off, or lay them out flat and separated on concrete, away from the house, until they are completely stiff and dry. Never pile them up, bag them, or leave them in a garbage can in the garage.

Why is my deck still sticky days after staining?

Almost always excess stain that was never wiped off. Oil stain only cures once it has penetrated the wood — whatever sits on the surface stays tacky indefinitely. Wipe the area down with a rag dampened in mineral spirits as soon as you notice it; the longer you leave it, the harder it is to correct.

Do I need to strip old stain before restaining?

Only if the existing finish is failing — peeling, flaking, or heavily worn. A healthy, intact stain usually just needs a good clean and a light scuff-sand before recoating.

Can I stain my deck in the fall in Calgary?

Yes, as long as daytime temperatures stay in range and overnight temperatures hold above the minimum cure threshold for your product (see the tables above) — just watch the forecast closely, since Calgary weather can turn quickly this time of year.

What's the difference between Woodluxe, SICO SRD, and Messmer's for my deck?

All three perform well in Calgary's climate. Woodluxe (water-based) is easier cleanup and dries faster; SICO SRD and Messmer's (oil-based) penetrate more deeply for longer-lasting protection. Come in and we'll help you pick based on your wood type and how much maintenance you want to do.

Shop deck, fence & siding stains →